Ochre / blue anaglyphs made in Photoshop

Here’s a pic of what your glasses should look like (kinda).

ColorCode anaglyphs are made with ColorCode© software. According to Claus Krarup (previously a share-holder in the company), the colour is truly coded, hence the name. Colours in the original are changed to match the light transmission of the ochre filter. This conversion table is a secret and not revealed in the patent…. but isn’t too hard to decode.

On a standard pair or Red/Cyan 3D glasses, the RGB (red/green/blue) is distributed like this..

|R|=|GB|==,   <—-Regular RED/CYAN Glasses Diagram   ?:-}

but the super bowl glasses are like this…

|RG|=|B|==,   <—-Super Bowl 3D Glasses Diagram, with a smidgon of a tweak on the blue, and maybe just a hair on the green.   ?:-D

It means that you get better greens, reds & blues.  On red/cyan anything that is red or cyan (red=skin), they show up blurry.  On top of that, the blue/amber images are easier to view for users who don’t have 3D glasses.

If you want to find the exact color conversion table for ColorCode, just go to one of their 3D websites, find a white 3D image on a black background, and take note of the halos to the right and left of the white image.  You’ll just need to find something that is #FFFFFF and #000000, with a blue/yellow halo to the right and left.  If you take a color sample of those halos, you’ll see that they don’t come out to be exactly (0,0,255) and (255,255,0) on the RGB colorscale.  That difference is their “top secret, patented, color spcetrum.”  Mess around with the Green/Blue Levels (or brightness) to fine tune the colors you need.

How Can I make my own 3D images?

Simple.

1. Take two pictures, side by side.  Take them similar to how your eyes see the world.  Think Wayne’s World: “Camera one.  Camera two. Camera one.  Camera two.” I like to use the Continuous Exposure feature to rattle off a series of 6 or 7 photos, as I swing my body from right to left.  That way you’re almost always guarenteed to get one steropair good enough to make into an anaglyph image.
2. Download Gimp.
3. Google “Tutorial Gimp Anaglyph” and read the first few links.  Then, maybe search the same thing on YouTube.  I haven’t checked, but I’m sure something is out there.
4. Have fun.

So, How Can I make my own 3D images, IN PHOTOSHOP ?

Simple:

1. Bring in your right an left images onto seperate layers.
2. Make the top layer 50% opacity, and lined the two images up to the most likely focal point.
3. Bring the layer back up to 100% opacity
4. Select the right image, hit CTRL + L (for levels), then select the Red Channel, and change the output levels to 0 and 0.  Then choose the Green Channel, and again, change the output levels to 0 and 0.  Then click OK. That image should turn a deep blue.
5. Now select the left layer,  hit CTRL + L (for levels), then select the Blue Channel, and change the output levels to 0 and 0, and click OK.
6. Now, select the top layer (it can go either way), and change the Blend Mode to Screen.
7. Now just crop out the blue and yellow border/overlap, and you have a 3D Blue/Amber (ColorCode) image, just like 3D Chuck, 3D Super Bowl Commercials, etc.

Note: If you want the exact ColorCode spectrum, you do need to add a few extra steps.  I’ve just generalized how you can get a working image in just a few steps.  To brighten the image, you can’t use the Brightness/Contrast feature, because it will change the color of the halos.  What you need to do instead is make a duplicate copy of the right and left image, merge them together (CTRL + E), and then adjust the opacity of that layer, for brightness.  Pay special attention to the opacity level that is just low enough so the blue halos near black objects don’t show.

One More Note: If you want the specific ColorCode RGB levels, the best website to pull the values from is here – http://www.hp.com/united-states/campaigns/showroom/flash/  Click on a product, then click on images, and you’ll notice that they’re all on a white to grey gradient background.  Take RGB color samples at the top pixel using the eye dropper tool in Photoshop.  You’ll see that the Blue/Amber Values are a little different than (255,255,0) and (0,0,255).  Good Luck!!!

What about making my own 3D images, IN GIMP ?

err…. let me get back with you on that one….

Here’s a YouTube video tutorial for now – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rN-i0NWoG8

Looking for some ColorCode 3D examples?

Click here if you just want to see some 3D Pictures Compatible w Super Bowl Glasses

Other ColorCode Info

The viewer’s ochre filter transmits red very well, but green is suppressed. It is claimed that printed ColorCode pictures are very close to true colours, even when seen without the goggles. In fact there is some fringing with yellow and blue ghosts and the image has a blue tinge. This is even more obvious when ColorCode software is not used and the author’s recommendation to enhance blue is followed.

Many amateurs use Photoshop. Anabuilder has a yellow/purple choice producing something near to ColorCode. (According to Etienne Monaret, this choice is changing to yellow/blue on future versions of Anabuilder.) The results should not be called “ColorCode,” which is a trademark, just as Coca Cola is not Pepsi Cola.

ColorCode Cardboard viewers are made by American Paper Optics and are only slightly more costly than red/cyan viewers. Few people have them, which makes ColorCode pointless for the Internet. If you are digital projecting to an audience and supply the goggles, then of course you can use any filter colours you like.